Machine Preparation: Understanding Knits vs Wovens

When embarking on a sewing project, understanding the fabric you’re working with is essential for achieving professional and durable results. Two primary types of fabric—knits and wovens—each require unique machine settings, needles, and sewing techniques. By preparing your sewing machine appropriately for each fabric type, you can avoid common pitfalls like puckered seams, skipped stitches, and uneven tension.

Let’s dive deeper into the characteristics of knits and wovens and explore how to best prepare your machine for sewing them.

What Are Knits and Wovens?

Before adjusting your machine settings, it’s important to understand the fundamental differences between knits and wovens, as these differences will inform how you approach sewing each type.

Knits

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  • Structure: Knits are made by interlocking loops of yarn, which creates a fabric that is naturally stretchy. This stretchiness is due to the looped construction, which allows the fabric to expand and contract. Because of this, knits are often chosen for garments that require flexibility, such as t-shirts, leggings, and activewear.
  • Common Types: Jersey (often used for t-shirts), rib knit (frequently used for cuffs and waistbands), and interlock (a thicker, more stable knit) are all examples of knit fabrics.
  • Behavior: Knits have varying degrees of stretch, both horizontally and vertically. Some knits, like spandex, are extremely stretchy, while others, like interlock, have a more moderate stretch. The stretch direction is crucial when cutting out patterns, as it affects the fit and drape of the final garment.

Here are some of Winslet’s go-to patterns that shine when made with knits:

1. Long Sleeve Henley Sewing Pattern ‘Riley’

This is a long-sleeve henley top with a buttoned neckline and relaxed fit. For best results, we recommend light-medium weight fabrics, such as 100% cotton, cotton blend, cotton spandex, cotton jersey, rib (1×1, 2×2 and 2×1). These fabrics allow the fitted sleeves and neckline to sit beautifully while keeping you comfortable all day.

2. Long Cardigan Sewing Pattern ‘Nora’

This is an open-front cardigan offering a relaxed silhouette for effortless layering. It pairs wonderfully with medium weight jersey, rib fabric or terry. These fabrics provide the warmth and drape needed for a cardigan that feels as good as it looks.

3. Pull-On Pants Sewing Pattern ‘Michelle’

These are high-waisted straight-leg pants with elastic waistband & sleek, minimal design. To achieve the perfect fit and stretch, opt for light to medium weight knit fabrics, such as jersey, rib, scuba, lycra blends and spandex blends. These fabrics give just enough structure to keep the pants looking polished while still being ultra-cozy.

Wovens

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  • Structure: Wovens are created by weaving threads at right angles to each other—one set running vertically (the warp) and the other horizontally (the weft). This method results in a fabric that is generally non-stretchy and more stable than knits.
  • Common Types: Examples include cotton poplin (a light, crisp fabric often used for shirts), denim (a sturdy fabric used for jeans), and linen (a breathable fabric ideal for warm-weather garments).
  • Behavior: Wovens tend to hold their shape well, making them suitable for structured garments like trousers, jackets, and dresses. However, some wovens, like linen, can wrinkle easily, while others, like denim, are heavy and durable.

Here are some Winslet’s sewing patterns that truly shine when paired with woven fabrics:

1. Cottagecore Maxi Skirt Sewing Pattern ‘Maple’

This maxi skirt has a belted waist, button-down front, and ruffled hem. We recommend lightweight fabrics, such as cotton, hemp, linen and bamboo. These fabrics give the skirt a soft, breezy feel that’s perfect for twirling through your day.

2. Wrap Dress Sewing Pattern ‘Camellia’

This elegant wrap midi dress has a sweetheart neckline and cross-back straps. Opt for 100% cotton, cotton blend, silk blend, jersey, crepe, georgette and viscose. These wovens create a flattering silhouette that skims the body and moves effortlessly with you.

3. Keyhole Sheath Dress Sewing Pattern ‘Celestia’

This is a knee length dress with a subtle keyhole detail on neckline and dramatic long sleeves. Fabrics like cotton blend, georgette or viscose work beautifully for this design, offering clean lines and a polished finish.

Machine Preparation for Knits

Sewing knits can be challenging if your machine isn’t properly set up. Due to their stretchiness, knits require specific adjustments to your machine to ensure smooth stitching and avoid common issues like skipped stitches or wavy seams.

  1. Needles
  • Type: Use a ballpoint or stretch needle. Unlike regular needles, ballpoint needles have a rounded tip that slides between the fabric’s fibers instead of piercing them. This reduces the risk of skipped stitches and prevents damaging the knit fabric. A stretch needle, specifically designed for highly elastic fabrics, is also an excellent choice.
  • Sizes: Needle sizes vary depending on the weight of your fabric. For lightweight knits like jersey, a smaller size (e.g., 75/11) is suitable. For heavier knits, such as double knits, opt for a larger size (e.g., 90/14).
  1. Stitches
  • Types: A stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch is ideal for knits. These stitches have a bit of give, which allows the fabric to stretch without the thread breaking. The stretch stitch is often a lightning bolt shape, which provides durability and stretch. For seams that need extra strength, such as side seams or crotch seams, a triple stretch stitch may be used.
  • Seams: For finishing seams, a serger or an overlock stitch is recommended. These stitches not only secure the seam but also prevent the edges from curling or fraying, which is common with knits.
  1. Thread
  • Type: Polyester or a polyester-cotton blend thread works best with knits because it has the strength and slight elasticity needed for these fabrics. Pure cotton thread is less ideal as it can snap under the stress of a stretching seam.
  • Matching: Ensure the thread color matches or complements your fabric, as visible stitching is often more noticeable on knits.
  1. Presser Foot Pressure
  • Adjustment: If your machine allows for it, reduce the presser foot pressure. High pressure can stretch the fabric as you sew, resulting in wavy seams. Reducing the pressure helps maintain the fabric’s natural stretch and ensures smooth stitching.
  • Testing: Test the pressure on a scrap of fabric before beginning your project. You want the fabric to feed evenly without being distorted.
  1. Tension
  • Adjustment: Loosen the upper thread tension slightly to avoid puckering. Puckering can occur if the tension is too tight, causing the stitches to pull too tightly on the fabric. Testing on a scrap piece of fabric will help you find the right balance.
  • Bobbin Tension: Generally, you won’t need to adjust bobbin tension for knits, but if you’re having trouble with even stitching, consider checking it.
  1. Stabilizing
  • Use of Stabilizers: If your knit fabric is particularly stretchy or slippery, use a stabilizer like tissue paper or wash-away stabilizer under your seams. This helps prevent the fabric from stretching out of shape as you sew. Stabilizers can also be used when sewing buttonholes or applying appliqués to knits.

Machine Preparation for Wovens

Wovens, being more stable and generally easier to work with than knits, still require specific machine settings to ensure a smooth sewing process and professional results.

  1. Needles
  • Type: Use a universal or sharp needle. Universal needles have a slightly rounded tip, making them versatile for most woven fabrics. Sharp needles, as the name suggests, have a sharper point that is ideal for penetrating tightly woven fabrics like silk or denim without causing pulls or damage.
  • Sizes: For lightweight wovens like cotton voile, use a smaller needle (e.g., 70/10). For medium-weight fabrics like quilting cotton, a 80/12 needle is appropriate. For heavy fabrics like denim, use a larger needle (e.g., 100/16).
  1. Stitches
  • Straight Stitch: A straight stitch is the go-to stitch for most woven fabrics. It creates a strong, durable seam that holds up well with the stable nature of woven fabrics.
  • Stitch Length: Adjust your stitch length based on the fabric weight. For lightweight fabrics, a shorter stitch length (around 2.0 mm) works best, as it creates neat, tight stitches. For heavier fabrics, a longer stitch length (around 3.0 mm) is better, as it allows the fabric to move smoothly through the machine and prevents puckering.
  1. Thread
  • Type: All-purpose polyester thread is suitable for most wovens. It’s strong, durable, and comes in a wide range of colors. For lightweight or delicate fabrics, consider using a finer thread to avoid adding bulk.
  • Matching: Similar to knits, choose a thread color that matches or blends well with your fabric.
  1. Presser Foot Pressure
  • Adjustment: Keep the presser foot pressure at a standard level unless you notice issues like puckering or uneven feeding. Adjust as needed based on the fabric. For very thick fabrics, you might need to increase the pressure slightly.
  • Testing: Always test on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure the pressure is appropriate for your project.
  1. Tension
  • Adjustment: Standard tension settings usually work well for wovens, but you should still test on a scrap piece of fabric. Look for even stitches with no pulling or puckering. If you notice any issues, adjust the tension slightly until you achieve a balanced stitch.
  • Bobbin Tension: Like with knits, bobbin tension typically doesn’t need adjustment for wovens unless you’re experiencing issues with stitch quality.
  1. Seam Finishing
  • Preventing Fraying: Unlike knits, most wovens fray easily. To prevent this, consider finishing your seams with a serger, pinking shears, or a zigzag stitch. A serger is the most professional option, trimming and overlocking the seam in one step. If you don’t have a serger, pinking shears create a zigzag edge that resists fraying, or you can use the zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine.

Final Tips for Both Knits and Wovens

  • Test, Test, Test: Regardless of the fabric type, always test your machine settings on a scrap of the fabric you’re about to sew. This helps you identify potential issues before they ruin your project, such as incorrect tension, stitch length, or needle type.
  • Needle Changes: Don’t forget to change your needle regularly. A dull needle can cause skipped stitches, puckering, and fabric damage, especially on delicate fabrics like lightweight knits or silks.
  • Slow Down: Take your time to adjust your machine settings. Rushing can lead to mistakes and frustration, especially when sewing with tricky fabrics like knits or very delicate wovens. The right preparation, including thorough testing, can save you a lot of time and effort in the long run.
  • Maintain Your Machine: Regularly clean and oil your machine to keep it running smoothly. This is particularly important when sewing heavy fabrics or fabrics that shed fibers, like fleece or denim, which can cause lint build-up in your machine.

Summary

Understanding the differences between knits and wovens and preparing your machine accordingly is key to mastering sewing with these fabrics. With the right tools and techniques, you’ll be ready to tackle any project with confidence!

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